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R Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession a complex enchantment Surfing only looks like a sport To initiates it is something else entirely a beautiful addiction a demanding course of study a morally dangerous pastime a way of life Raised in California and Hawaii Finnegan started surfing as a child He has chased waves all over the world wandering for years through the South Pacific Australia Asia Africa A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds some of them right under our noses off the coasts of New York and San Francisco It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them Youthful folly he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui is served up with rueful humor He and a buddy their knapsacks crammed with reef charts bushwhack through Polynesia They discover while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji one of the world's greatest waves As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield he becomes an improbable anthropologist unpicking the picturesue simplicity of a Samoan fishing village dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria Throughout he surfs carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing unprecedented lucidityBarbarian Days is an old school adventure story an intellectual autobiography a social history a literary road movie and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting little understood art Today Finnegan's surfing life is undiminished Frantically juggling work and family he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagasc I didn’t expect to find a surfing memoir via a podcast about American politics but amongst all the gloom of the Slate Political Gabfest’s coverage of the last Presidential election cycle there was a recommendation to read Barbarian Days by Bill Finnegan Soon afterwards I heard that the book had won the 2016 William Hill Sports Book of the Year Award in the UK having already picked up a Pulitzer for Biography A surfing book? A Pulitzer? Really? The rebel alliance has clearly been sucked into the mainstream this one obviously had to be readBill Finnegan is a New Yorker staffer with a background in political and conflict reportage so he knows his writing chops and has the contacts and reputation for this to come to the attention of the literary establishment in a way that most surfing books probably don’t Having said that this is the best book on the topic that I’ve read since Andy Martin’s Walking on Water another minor masterpieceHe never says as much but Finnegan is a minor hellman a big wave surfer Not the truly giant stuff taken on by household names like Laird Hamilton ok showing my age now but still this is a guy who has taken on most of the world’s best waves including some of the heaviest A man who has consistently surfed sessions in 10 15ft often at breaks where reefs and rocks reuire complete commitmentVery few of the people that can do this can also write as well as Finnegan and the descriptions he brings back from the wave face and ‘out the back’ in big swells ring with a sonorous truthBill Finnegan also captures the moment and the people beautifully growing up in the 60s in LA and Hawaii travelling cheap and light looking for waves in the 70s and 80s I found myself constantly drawn back to this book and to the water The recent arrival of two children mean that it’s been a long while since I bothered to check the surf at the local breaks I’m thinking that needs to change

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Barbarian DaysBarbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession a complex enchantment Surfing only looks like a sport To initiates it is something else entirely a beautiful addiction a demanding course of study a morally dangerous pastime a way of life Raised in California and Hawaii Finnegan started surfing as a child He has chased waves all over the world wandering for years through the South Pacific Australia Asia Africa A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds some of them right under our noses off the coasts of New York and San Francisco It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them Youthful folly he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui is served up with rueful humor He and a buddy their knapsacks crammed with reef charts bushwhack through Polynesia They discover while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji one of the world's greatest waves As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield he becomes an improbable anthropologist unpicking the picturesue simplicity of a Samoan fishing village dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria Throughout he surfs carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing unprecedented lucidityBarbarian Days is an old school adventure story an intellectual autobiography a social history a literary road movie and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting little understood art Today Finnegan's surfing life is undiminished Frantically juggling work and family he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar William Finnegan has written the rarest of books a measured very literary account of a surfing life Or with the surfing and everything about it as central to his account of that life As a lifelong surfer myself all of his descriptions feelings fears and joys rang true Descriptions of some of the earliest days at now legendary destinations and surf breaks bring great pleasure A must read for surfers and an opportunity for non surfers to understand the drives and experiences of this watery tribe Finnegan skilfully plaits together elements of his working personal and surfing lives across oceans continents and decades

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Free Barbarian Days kindle ó eBook ✓ ❰Download❯ ➾ Barbarian Days Author William Finnegan – Goproled.co.uk Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession a complex enchantment Surfing only looks like a sport To initiates it is something else entirely a beautiful addiction a demanding course of BarbariaBarbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession a complex enchantment Surfing only looks like a sport To initiates it is something else entirely a beautiful addiction a demanding course of study a morally dangerous pastime a way of life Raised in California and Hawaii Finnegan started surfing as a child He has chased waves all over the world wandering for years through the South Pacific Australia Asia Africa A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds some of them right under our noses off the coasts of New York and San Francisco It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them Youthful folly he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui is served up with rueful humor He and a buddy their knapsacks crammed with reef charts bushwhack through Polynesia They discover while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji one of the world's greatest waves As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield he becomes an improbable anthropologist unpicking the picturesue simplicity of a Samoan fishing village dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria Throughout he surfs carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing unprecedented lucidityBarbarian Days is an old school adventure story an intellectual autobiography a social history a literary road movie and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting little understood art Today Finnegan's surfing life is undiminished Frantically juggling work and family he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagasca Loved to read about foreign breaks and feeling to discover and ride new waves At times I felt the author was too verbose but the story was still epic